TL;DR — Quick Answer
The Fast Version
Switching carriers is one of those things that sounds scary until you actually do it. You’ve had the same phone number for years, maybe decades. Your friends have it memorized. Your bank uses it for 2FA. The last thing you want is to lose it or spend a whole weekend on hold trying to figure out what a “Number Transfer PIN” is.
Good news: the FCC actually forces carriers to let you take your number with you. They can’t hold it hostage, and they can’t charge you to release it. But there’s a right way and a wrong way to do this, and the wrong way can leave you without service for days.
This guide walks you through both directions — porting your number OUT of AT&T to another carrier, and porting INTO AT&T from somewhere else. Whether you’re jumping to T-Mobile, Verizon, Mint, Visible, US Mobile, Cricket, or coming back to AT&T after a breakup, the process is basically the same. Let’s get you moved.
3 Ways to Get Your AT&T Number Transfer PIN
This is the one thing that trips people up. Your new carrier needs a special 6-8 digit code called a Number Transfer PIN (NTPIN) — it’s different from your regular account password. Here’s how to grab it in 2 minutes:
From your AT&T phone, just dial *7678 (*PORT). Follow the prompts, enter your account passcode, and the PIN gets texted to you.
Open the myAT&T app → tap your profile → Wireless passcode & Number Transfer PIN → Request new PIN. Shows on screen.
Sign into att.com → Profile → People & permissions → Wireless → Transfer phone number → Request new PIN.
Don’t request it weeks in advance. Grab your Number Transfer PIN right before you actually start the port with your new carrier. If it expires, just request another one — no big deal, but it’s annoying.
Before You Port: What You Actually Need
Don’t skip this. Nothing kills a port faster than a typo in your account number or a wrong billing ZIP. Gather all of this before you even start:
- Your AT&T phone number(s) — the ones you want to keep
- AT&T account number — on any recent bill, or in the myAT&T app under Profile → My linked accounts
- Number Transfer PIN (NTPIN) — see the three methods above
- Billing ZIP code — must match EXACTLY what AT&T has on file
- Full name on the account (exactly as billed)
- Your device IMEI (only if you’re keeping your current phone) — dial *#06# to get it
- Wireless Account Lock turned OFF — this is a new AT&T security feature that blocks ports by default
- Device fully paid off or unlocked — if you financed your phone, check the balance
Your AT&T Port-Out Checklist
This is the #1 reason ports get rejected in 2026. AT&T now enables Wireless Account Lock by default on new accounts. Open the myAT&T app → Mobile Security → AT&T Wireless Account Lock → toggle it OFF. Without this, every port request you submit will fail.
How to Port Your Number OUT of AT&T (Step-by-Step)
Okay, you’ve got your stuff together. Here’s how the actual port-out works, from start to “welcome to your new carrier” text:
Check that your new carrier actually has coverage where you live (all three major networks have coverage maps). If you’re bringing your current phone, also check that it’s compatible — most modern iPhones and Samsung Galaxy devices work on any network, but older or regional phones sometimes don’t.
If you financed your phone through AT&T Next or similar, you don’t have to pay it off to port your number — but you’ll still owe that balance after leaving. AT&T will send you a final bill. Also, your phone needs to be unlocked before it’ll work on the new network. Request an unlock at att.com/deviceunlock if you haven’t already.
Open the myAT&T app, go to Mobile Security, find AT&T Wireless Account Lock, and switch it off. Skip this step and your port gets rejected, full stop.
Dial *PORT (*7678) from your AT&T phone, or use the myAT&T app. Write it down — you’ll need it in about 5 minutes. Remember: it expires in 4 days.
Sign up online, in the app, or walk into a store. When they ask “Do you want to bring your number?” — YES. Enter your AT&T phone number, account number, billing ZIP, and the NTPIN you just got. The new carrier handles everything from here.
Your new carrier texts or emails you when the port finishes. Until then, your AT&T service keeps working. DO NOT call AT&T to cancel — if you do, you lose the number. The port itself cancels your AT&T service automatically when it completes.
Once you get the “port complete” message, pop in the new SIM or scan the eSIM QR code. Restart your phone. Test a call. You’re done.
(855) 696-0156
How to Port Your Number INTO AT&T (From Another Carrier)
Coming to AT&T instead? Same concept, just reversed. You’ll need your current carrier’s info:
Go to att.com/transferyournumber and enter your current number. AT&T tells you instantly whether they can take it. Most wireless numbers port fine; some old landline numbers or rural rate-center numbers can be tricky.
Every carrier has their own way. T-Mobile users: dial #PORT# or use the app. Verizon: text “NTP” to 1-800-392-0717 from your Verizon phone. Mint, US Mobile, Visible, Cricket — check the app or account page. Most PINs expire in 7 days.
You need: your current phone number, your old account number, billing ZIP or address, account holder name, and that port PIN. Pull it from a recent bill if you can.
Pick a plan at att.com, in the AT&T app, or walk into a store. When prompted, select “Bring my number” and enter the info from Step 3. Stores often complete wireless ports in 1–3 hours. Online orders take 3–5 business days.
Same rule as porting out — don’t cancel your old carrier. AT&T’s system closes that account automatically once the port is done. AT&T will text when it’s complete.
Follow the activation instructions. Send a test text, make a test call. Welcome to AT&T.
Porting Timeline: How Long Does Each Type Take?
Not all ports are created equal. Wireless-to-wireless is fast. Landlines are slow. Here’s what to expect:
Number Transfer Time by Type & Method
| Port Type | Online Order | In-Store | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wireless → Wireless | A few hours to 1 business day | 1–3 business hours | Fastest; most common |
| Wireless → AT&T (online) | 3–5 business days | 1–3 hours | Faster in-store |
| Landline → Wireless | 5–7 business days | 5–7 business days | Longer due to physical line release |
| VoIP (Google Voice, etc.) | 3–7 business days | 3–7 business days | May require separate “unlock” from VoIP provider |
| Business line → Consumer | 5–10 business days | 5–10 business days | Letter of Authorization may be required |
Walk in, walk out with your number
Most common path; fast and easy
More paperwork, slower release
Don’t grab it too early
Why Ports Get Rejected (And How to Fix It)
About 1 in 10 port requests fail on the first try. Almost always, it’s one of these issues:
AT&T blocks all port-outs when Account Lock is enabled. Turn it off in the myAT&T app under Mobile Security before you start.
Even one digit off = rejection. Pull it directly from your bill — don’t type from memory. If your billing address changed recently, use the ZIP on your actual invoice.
NTPINs only last 4 days. Request a fresh one right before starting the port — not a week in advance.
Once a number is disconnected, it can’t be ported. The number goes back into the pool after ~45 days and you lose it. Always keep the original line active until the new one works.
If you’re porting a number on your mom’s family plan, the port request must match her info (the account holder), not yours. Get her to initiate the port or grant authorization.
The FCC rules say carriers must release your number even if you have an outstanding balance or termination fee. They’ll still come after you for the money, but they can’t hold the number hostage.
Does Porting Your AT&T Number Cost Anything?
Short answer: no, AT&T doesn’t charge a port-out fee. The FCC actually bars carriers from charging customers to transfer their number. That said, a few other costs might come up:
Possible Costs When Porting From AT&T
| Charge | Typical Cost | When It Applies |
|---|---|---|
| Port-out fee | $0 | Never — AT&T doesn’t charge this |
| Remaining device financing | Varies ($100–$1,200+) | If you haven’t paid off your phone on installments |
| Early termination fee (ETF) | Usually $0 for wireless | AT&T eliminated wireless ETFs years ago; some legacy contracts still have them |
| Final prorated bill | Partial month | AT&T bills in advance — you may get a credit OR an invoice for the last few days of service |
| New carrier activation fee | $0–$35 | Most no-contract / prepaid carriers waive this; postpaid carriers often charge it |
| Number change fee (if porting INTO AT&T) | ~$36 | Only if you’re replacing an existing AT&T number with a transferred one |
Smart Things to Do Before You Port
- Back up your phone. iCloud, Google One, or a local backup — just do it. Ports rarely wipe data, but SIM switches sometimes cause weirdness.
- Save your contacts to Google/iCloud (not just the SIM).
- Turn off iMessage and FaceTime (Settings → Messages → toggle off) if you’re moving from iPhone to Android — otherwise iMessages keep routing to iCloud.
- Download any 2FA codes or authenticator backups. If your bank texts codes to your number, make sure they still arrive on the new carrier.
- Screenshot important messages you’d hate to lose during the brief switchover.
- Keep your old SIM for 30 days after porting, just in case.
The 5-Minute Pre-Port Checklist
For maybe 5–30 minutes, your phone drops service. You’ll see “No Service” or “SOS only.” That’s totally normal. The instant the port completes, your new carrier’s signal pops in, you get a welcome text, and you’re back online with the same number.
No. Under FCC rules, AT&T (and every other carrier) must release your number when you request a port — even if you owe them money, have unpaid bills, or have a device installment balance. They can still bill you for those things afterward, but they cannot hold your number hostage. If a rep tells you otherwise, they’re wrong — escalate to a supervisor or file an FCC complaint.
For wireless-to-wireless transfers, it’s usually a few hours to 1 business day. If you do it in-store, you can often walk out with your number already working on the new carrier (1–3 hours). Landline and VoIP ports take longer — typically 5–7 business days because of the underlying infrastructure handoff. During the transfer, your AT&T service keeps working until the new one activates.
The Number Transfer PIN (NTPIN) is a separate 6–8 digit security code AT&T uses to authorize number transfers. It’s NOT your account passcode. Three ways to get it: (1) dial *PORT (*7678) from your AT&T phone, (2) open the myAT&T app and find it under your profile’s wireless passcode section, or (3) sign into att.com and go to Profile → People & permissions → Wireless → Transfer phone number. It expires in 4 days, so request it right before you start the port.
Absolutely not — this is the single biggest mistake people make. If you cancel AT&T before the port completes, your number gets disconnected and goes back into the carrier pool. You cannot recover it. Always let the port itself close your AT&T account automatically. Your service on AT&T keeps working right up until the moment the new carrier’s SIM activates.
Barely. Most people experience a short “No Service” window of 5 to 30 minutes while the port completes. Texts and calls during that window usually queue up and deliver once service returns. If you’re porting a landline or VoIP number, the downtime can be longer (sometimes a few hours), which is why we recommend scheduling those ports during off-hours.Can I port my number if I still owe money on my phone?Does AT&T charge a fee to port out?What if my port gets rejected?Can I port an AT&T prepaid (Cricket / AT&T Prepaid) number?Can I port a number that’s on a family plan?Does my AT&T phone work on other carriers after I port?What happens to my voicemails, texts, and contacts?
🎯 Ready to Port? We’ll Walk You Through It.
Getting stuck on a port-out is frustrating — especially when AT&T’s support puts you on hold for 45 minutes. Skip the wait and talk to a real human who knows the process.📞 (855) 696-0156
Disclaimer: Last updated April 2026. Port timeframes, policies, fees, and phone numbers referenced in this article are based on current AT&T and FCC guidelines and may change without notice. We are not affiliated with AT&T or any wireless carrier — this is an independent guide meant to help you understand the number portability process. Always verify account-specific details directly with your current and new carriers. Your experience may vary based on account status, location, and device.
Yes. An unpaid installment balance doesn’t stop the port. However, AT&T will bill you the remaining balance as a lump sum once you leave, and your phone stays locked until the device is fully paid off. If you want to use your current phone on the new carrier, pay off the installment plan and request a device unlock through att.com/deviceunlock before you port.
No. AT&T does not charge a port-out fee — the FCC prohibits it. The only charges you might see are a final prorated bill for your last partial month of service, and any remaining device installment balance if you financed a phone. New carriers sometimes charge an activation fee ($0–$35) depending on the plan, but that’s their charge, not AT&T’s.
Don’t panic — rejections happen and are almost always fixable. The top reasons: Wireless Account Lock is still on, wrong account number, wrong billing ZIP, or an expired NTPIN. Contact your new carrier first — they’ll tell you the specific rejection reason. Fix the issue, request a fresh NTPIN if needed, and resubmit. Most ports succeed on the second try. If you keep hitting walls, call (855) 696-0156 and we’ll help troubleshoot.
Yes, prepaid AT&T numbers can be ported just like postpaid. The process is the same: get your Number Transfer PIN, account number, and billing ZIP, then initiate the port with your new carrier. One quirk — prepaid account numbers are sometimes your phone number itself, and the NTPIN may be different (Cricket users can request it through the Cricket app or by calling 611 from their Cricket phone).
Yes, but only the account holder (primary line) can authorize it. If you’re a secondary line on someone else’s AT&T family plan, they have to request the Number Transfer PIN for your line. Alternatively, they can remove your line from their account first — at which point you’d need to establish service somewhere (even briefly) before porting — but that’s messy. The cleanest option: have the primary account holder get the NTPIN and share it with you.
Only if the phone is unlocked. AT&T locks financed phones to their network until you either pay the device off in full or meet the 60-day unlock eligibility. Once eligible, request an unlock at att.com/deviceunlock — it’s free. Most modern unlocked iPhones (11 and newer) and Samsung Galaxy phones (S20 and newer) work great on T-Mobile, Verizon, and most MVNOs. Older or mid-tier phones sometimes have band compatibility issues, so check before you switch.
Ready to Port? We’ll Walk You Through It.
Getting stuck on a port-out is frustrating — especially when AT&T’s support puts you on hold for 45 minutes. Skip the wait and talk to a real human who knows the process.
Last updated April 2026. Port timeframes, policies, fees, and phone numbers referenced in this article are based on current AT&T and FCC guidelines and may change without notice. We are not affiliated with AT&T or any wireless carrier — this is an independent guide meant to help you understand the number portability process. Always verify account-specific details directly with your current and new carriers. Your experience may vary based on account status, location, and device.
